yes sir tama ka... also did my research... hehe...
maybe we should have a refresher course on the relationship between light and film (image sensor) and how aperture is used to regulate that light or how the shutter speed is used to do the same. how the interplay of shutter speed and aperture produces photos how you meant them to be.
aperture is like an eye squinting in light. sometimes the light is bright you squint to adjust. the light is low, you open your eyes more to let in more light. if you want to focus on several objects that are of different distances (i.e. see farther) you squint. you focus on just one thing, you open your eyes even more to blur other details. parang ganun.
if you still have no idea what the heck i'm talking about, ask questions here. the last thing i want is to bump into one of you and see your shiny expensive dslrs on AUTO or P or one of those pre-set settings like macro or portrait. sayang naman. kung ganun din lang, mas mura mag point and shoot. water resistant pa ang iba!
Last edited by shootodog; 07-28-2010 at 09:27 AM.
peace and love and happiness
master rapidpunch... ikaw ang chicboy, hindi ako.
iba't ibang klase kase ang focus. mayroong Auto at mayroong Manual. ililista ko yung common modes sa ibaba. kung very precise ka sa gusto mong subject, syempre doon mo siya ifofocus. kung mapapansin mo ang viewfinder ng camera mo, may mga focal points or yung parang bilog bilog sa gitna, sa mga gilid, o kung saan mang fixed areas doon.
pag gumagamit ka ng auto, yung camera ang pumipili ng subject na titignan nya. OK lang iyon, kung tama ang itinuturo nya. pero kung hinde, katulad ng pic ni dave sa taas, it would be better to use manual focusing.
Auto vs manual does not end with the idea na pipihitin mo yung focus nung lens or kung yung camera magaadjust noon sayo. to put better in writing, heto nakita kong mas madaling intindihin.
The LCD or electronic viewfinder indicates when and where focus is locked. A visual indicator, such as a small lamp or change in color of the focus indicator, confirms when focus is achieved.
Auto focus
Single (or one) area focus — Camera focuses on a subject in the central area of the screen. Focus adjusts according to the distance of the subject. This focus mode is usually the most accurate because you, not the camera, decides where the camera focuses.
Continuous autofocus — Focuses continually on a subject. Continuous AF can be useful, though not always perfect, when shooting slow moving subjects. On digital cameras with video capabilities, continuous AF is usually the default focus mode.
Spot focus — Camera focuses on a very precise center area of the screen.
Multi area focus — Camera automatically focuses using multiple focus points. The focus positions change according to each subject, focusing on a number of objects within a scene. This mode can be less accurate than single area focus.
Face-priority AF — Face-priority AF is a digital camera detection program that scans for facial details. It controls the auto focus operation based on the location of the detected face in the scene. It may give exposure priority to the face as well. Some digital cameras let you lock focus on a specific face. If the subject moves, or the photographer recomposes the picture, focus remains on the subject’s face.
Prefocus
Prefocusing can be effective when there is a pre-determined, similar distance between the camera and subject. Focus is fixed until you press the focus button again or switch to a different focus mode. Prefocus allows you to lock focus on a subject, then recompose. Digital cameras have different methods of prefocusing, so check the manual.
Manual focus
Manual focus area – Focus on a portion of a scene when not centered in the frame. This method is useful for close-up and macro shots.
Focus ring — Focus manually, from a few feet to infinity, by turning a focus ring near the lens.
Focus button — Depress a manual focus button and rotate a dial until the subject is in focus.
autofocus? what is this aberration of nature you speak of?
peace and love and happiness
eto yung AF-MF option sa gilid ng lens di ba? at yung pihitan sa may dulo ng lens?madalas kasi naka auto ako. lalo na pag events. shutter lang at Aperture nag kakatalo. pero pag mga good subjects to take .. inaaral ko talaga mag manual.. ang common dito effect eh yung subject sharp tapos background mejo blurred and vice versa tama po ba?
![]()
the best tip i got was from outside magazine's september 2009 photo issue
KNOW YOUR SETTINGS
Manual
Use it whenever the light and your shooting environment won't be changing from moment to moment. Hand-metering is the most accurate.
Aperture Priority
You set the aperture; your camera picks the shutter speed. Use it whenever you're relying on the camera's meter. In aperture priority, your shot might be blurry, but it'll never be underexposed.
Shutter Priority
You set the shutter speed; the camera figures out the aperture. Use it when either blurring or freezing the shot is critical.
Program
Never use it.
--EDS.
peace and love and happiness
sino may extra charger dyan for canon dslr? hindi ko kasi alam kung yung mismong charger LC-E5E ko yung may problema or yung cord or yung battery pack LP-E5...namamatay agad charger... Sa august 15 na deadline ng entries sa PINES... Bilhin ko na sa murang halaga
![]()
mortal check mo sulit.com.ph or sa PEX may mga classfieds duon![]()
AF-MF option sa gilid ng lens, yun nga iyon kung gusto mo ng manual or auto focusing. bukod doon, tignan mo din ang finofocusan mo habang sumisilip ka sa viewfinder. yes, ganon ang effect noon bossing kapag highlighted at nakafocus ang subject mo - sila ang nagpop sa litrato.
Bookmarks